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The first thing worth knowing is that none of the cellars are in Porto. Every lodge — Sandeman, Taylor’s, Graham’s, Cálem, Kopke — sits in Vila Nova de Gaia on the far bank, a fifteen-minute walk from Ribeira across the lower deck of the Dom Luís I bridge. What you tour there is a warehouse, not a vineyard: the vines grow a hundred kilometres upriver in the Douro, and the barrels have been coming down to Gaia to age since the eighteenth century.
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